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马拉松城纪 | 跑过美西

用跑步的方式去理解一个城市,这是一种非常独特的旅行方式。以马拉松比赛为目的地也会有种独特的情感。10天,4座美国西部城市,1场马拉松赛。小唐给你讲述在美国西部跑步的故事

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不知道是不是我比较容易注意到跑者的关系,到达美国的第一天,眼前出现的就是各种跑者。

第一天到达旧金山是在晚上九点多,一出Bart站,就迎面走来一个穿着跑步服的姑娘,正好我无法辨清方向,出于对跑者天然的亲切感,便上前问路。她说跟着她走即可。同行中好奇地问她是不是跑步,她说没错,十月她要参加旧金山的nike女子马拉松。于是又请她推荐旧金山的跑步路线,因为在每座经过的城市土地上跑跑步是我的梦想。她说了一串我听不明白的单词,听上去像是西语,见我听不明白,又推荐了从渔人码头到金门大桥的路线,单程6英里,约9.6公里。

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第二天出门观光,发现旧金山不大,原来随便走走就不小心走到了城市里的各个著名景点,一不小心走到了coil tower,一不小心走到了九曲花街(Lombard Road),一不小心走到了45号码头,并一路走到了金门大桥。这样四处晃荡的一路上才发现原来其实根本用不着昨晚的姑娘推荐,要发现旧金山的跑步路线简直轻而易举,几乎从我出门那刻开始,在全天的各个时段各个地点,眼前都会有人跑过。即使是被姑娘形容为太过“hilly”(坡度大)的地区,也依然有人不畏艰难。畏坡的我却仅仅是走走就觉得气喘吁吁了。

其实不仅仅是在旧金山,这般跑者的繁荣景象在我之后去到的圣地亚哥、西雅图和我将要参加马拉松的波特兰也是同一般。说美国人爱跑步,我这才见识到了。
此后便是一边观光,一边跑步,那些居住在当地的跑者便是我最好的向导。独自奔跑的人固然占大多数,但牵着爱犬、推着摇篮车或者成双成对的跑者也不占少数。跑步,似乎是那么自然地融入了他们的生活。

圣地亚哥当地为了心脏健康而举办的5km步行活动

圣地亚哥当地为了心脏健康而举办的5km步行活动

圣地亚哥的南加州阳光,旧金山雾霾中的金门大桥,西雅图不下雨的日子里,黄昏时的光线让人迷醉?;蛐硎且蛭孪矢?,每到一处,都有些迫不及待地想要跑上道路。浏览西雅图的地图时发现上面标注了西雅图马拉松的起点,后来又在旅游信息问询的柜台上发现一本西雅图马拉松的宣传册,原来12月1日这里将要举办西马,与上马恰巧是同一天。

而波特兰作为我的最后一站,是我将要参加马拉松赛事的城市。马拉松,这似乎是行程里一个过于重量级的日程,于是压过了所有其他一切的吸引力,也或许仅仅是因为跑马前的需要休息和跑马后的疲惫,在波特兰,似乎已经失去了观光的兴致。波特兰被称为玫瑰之城,因为这里的气候适合种植玫瑰,而我见到的唯一一朵玫瑰,却只是在马拉松结束后拿到的奖牌上。

2012年波特兰马拉松的奖牌曾被评为所有北美马拉松赛事中的第一号奖牌。今年的奖牌看上去也十分精致,全程奖牌是蓝金两色,半程奖牌是红银两色,除了颜色不同,两者皆采用相同的设计,呈马耳他十字的形状,象征着力量和成就。

比赛中的pacer都举着一个红蜥蜴的牌子,原本还在好奇波特兰与蜥蜴有啥关系,后来才知道原来红蜥蜴是当地的一个跑步俱乐部。

赛道上比较有挑战的一段是16英里处开始的一个大坡,坡顶就是圣约翰大桥。官方也在此处设立了检查点,跑者必须佩戴有号码布、鞋子上必须系着芯片才能上桥,这是为了防止比赛中出现作弊者。爬坡的过程非常费力,大部分跑者都停了下来,步行上坡。但上到圣约翰大桥后才发现此前的那一番辛劳是如此值得,最艰苦的一段之后,到来的也是赛道上最美的一段风景。跑在圣约翰大桥上,向下可以俯瞰流经波特兰的威拉米特河,抬头往前看,则能远眺俄勒冈的最高峰胡德峰。

下桥后的很长一段路线都是在一个居民区里,附近居民们都坐在自家门前为跑者们加油,有的还会提供补给。这倒有点让我想起??砝?,一路上附近村子里的居民们也是这样在赛道两边围观。

一路上加油的观众和表演者倒是不如我想象中热烈,一部分赛道也并不是完全封路,有时居民区里的慢跑者们也会一同跑在赛道上,有时甚至还要等上一个红绿灯让轻轨通过。波特兰也被称为火车之城,可想而知城内铁轨众多。组织者虽然极力避免赛道通过铁轨,但还是难以完全避免,因此他们决定“希望不要有火车经过的情况发生,如果确实发生了,那么尽量减少麻烦”。于是,志愿者横亘在跑者和火车之间,几百名跑者拥堵一处等待火车通过,这便成了波特兰马拉松一道独特的风景。当然,这种情况发生的概率相对来说还是比较低。

越过终点走出选手区后,等待的家人朋友们纷纷举着牌子迎接凯旋而归的跑者,即便独自一人的跑者也会掏出电话向朋友们通报。刚刚经过了独自一人的漫长的赛道,看到这般情景,不免生出些“没有人分享的胜利有何价值”的落寞,这是以前在国内跑马没有体会过的。
休息片刻后又跑去终点线附近观赛。波特兰的关门时间是8小时,赛程可谓十分漫长。

一个男孩子在那里等着自己的父亲,当他看到父亲的时候,激动地喊着“他做到了他做到了”,然后又笑着对身边的家人说“他在哭,他肯定在哭”。男儿有泪不轻弹,我想这位父亲的眼泪固然珍贵,但作为儿子,分享并感受到了父亲此时流泪的心情,甚至为他自豪,这个瞬间必定更为珍贵。

一位母亲胸前的号码牌上写着“Joe's Mum”,而她的儿子Joe就在她的旁边,还是个青少年,他们互相支持着完成了全程比赛。

一位头发花白的老者,号码牌上写着“for XXX”?;蛐硎俏蚁胂罅μ岣?,预感到那或许是一个已经去世的人。

在马拉松终点线上,总是有些让我想流泪的东西。这时候不禁想起纪录片《马拉松精神》里的一句话:有些人在竞赛马拉松,有些人在完成马拉松,而马拉松之美则在于它有容乃大,它能容得下所有这些东西(Some peole are competing marathon. Some people are completing marathon. And the beauty is the sport is big enough to embrace them all.)。本想在终点线处等待最后一个跑者的到来,看看那最后一个跑者的表情,虽然看过的电影里有过不少对此的描绘和背景故事的展开,但每一个“最后一名”都是独一无二,背后都有不同的故事呀,这让我有些好奇。

可我还是离开了。这趟美国西海岸的旅程也至此结束。Garmin Connect上留下的跑步路线是我唯一留下的印记。我发现原来跑步成了另一种标注“到此一游”的方式,而这些标注将成为我日后回忆的线索。

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