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经验 | 防晒霜究竟该如何???

夏季到了,除了高温外对于运动爱好者来说最大的敌人就是骄阳。

在户外运动中防晒是非常重要的?;ご胧?,但是面对琳琅满目的防晒用品究竟该如何选择?那些复杂拗口的成分都代表什么?爱燃烧分享 狐狸咧玫瑰咧 写的《妹子啊,防晒霜是这样选的》供各位参考。文章内目前只涉及了成分,使用质感不在考虑之列,并进行了适量的删减。

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今年,绵延不绝的夏天不负众望地奔跑在100F的不归路上,估计连坦格利安家族的迎着风暴降生的丹尼莉丝都扛不住了,更何况沐浴着祖国和煦春光长大的我等。四月,注视着还没缓过来的胳膊腿,想着去年发现手臂跟肚子差八个黑度的绝望心情,我默默地下定决心一定要不惜任何代价做好防晒工作。经过我各种严肃认真的review,总结出了#就算暑假也要保持研究节奏版#防晒霜选购指南。由于本人是国伦体的资深玩家,写high了容易中英文夹杂,勿怪勿怪啊。具体步骤只有两步,如下:

第一步:拿起防晒霜看正面

“Board Spectrum”和“SPF xx”是你能在正面找到的两个关键词,如果没有,请仔细寻找,真的没有,请hold住这一瓶?!癇oard Spectrum”就是“广谱防晒”,也就是能抵御伤害皮肤的大部分UVA和UVB射线。 UVA是指波段在320-400nm(数字不重要)可以深入皮肤导致衰老、皱纹甚至癌症的防晒头号目标,UVB呢,是指波段在280-315nm可以伤害皮肤表层(变红之类)的防晒二号目标。总之,防晒的最终目的就是要尽可能多的隔绝UVA和UVB,有了“Board Spectrum”一瓶防晒霜才算进了初选。值得注意的是,有些产品虽然没有标注BS,但成分确实存在,不要着急淘汰它哟。

那SPF是什么?Sun Protection Factor, 就是理论上一瓶防晒霜能阻止皮肤变红的时间。变红有没有!所以SPF是针对UVB的一项指标。各种巴拉巴拉算法都不重要,重要的是,U.S. FDA (Food and Drug Administration)表示超过50的SPF都是浮云,还有误导消费者以为可以防晒更长时间的嫌疑。选购的时候,SPF在15到50之间就Okay呐。 那UVA咧??那么重要的UVA咧??有没有想起一个叫PA的东西,在国内貌似见过,Bingo!遗憾地是,PA (Protection Grade of UVA)是日本化妆品协会的指标,美国产品不标注。加号越多防晒作用越强,一个加号可以延长2-4倍被晒黑时间,据我的资料,黄种人需要选择PA++及以上。

嗒哒??!完成第一步之后,就以为可以哈皮地顶着大德州的太阳活动了吗??TOO YOUNG TOO NAIVE??!最重要的,还没有开始?。?!

第二步:转过防晒霜看背面

哇塞,一堆字,好茫然。要找什么?请找Active Ingredients,即有效成分。立马高端洋气上档次,Avobenzone啊,Octisalate啊,Oxybenzone 啊,Zinc Oxide啊,啊啊啊。。。这些呢,都是常见的防晒霜成分,认不认识不重要,中文名也不重要。重要的LZ马上告诉你啊。

纵观当今防晒界,化学防晒和物理防晒是孤独的存在。物理防晒 (Physical Sun Block)主要是通过在皮肤表面立个盾牌,阻挡反射太阳光线,而化学防晒 (Chemical Sunscreen)呢,相当于在皮肤表面放块海绵,它通过成分与射线反应降低甚至消灭射线的伤害。大多数的皮肤医生都会推荐物理防晒产品,因为化学防晒原理中的化学反应容易导致过敏或其他皮肤伤害,严重时会导致皮肤光敏感(就是把射线对皮肤的伤害扩大到几十上百倍)。

物理防晒的有效成分只有两种:Zinc Oxide (氧化锌)和Titanium Dioxide (二氧化钛),Zinc Oxide是一种非常好的防晒成分,其物理性粉体能反射散射紫外线UVA、UVB,几乎涵盖所有波段,安全度高,至今没有任何有害健康的研究报告1,它的含量高对于防晒黑有奇效。Titanium Dioxide也是物理性粉体,安全性高,能阻挡全段UVB,但需要达到超过5%的高浓度时才能完全阻隔紫外线UVA1。所以,对着背面找这两个单词吧,重复一遍:Zinc Oxide 和Titanium Dioxide!如果有,请紧紧地拿在手里。

Wait!完了吗?没有。

虽然物理防晒千般好,可惜市面上产品少又少。所以呢,对于化学防晒剂也要有个基础的认识。拿过防晒霜,转到背面,请找Oxybenzone,找到了?赶紧扔掉。这个成分非常具有争议性,它疏水,会渗入皮肤与UVA反应,可能导致皮肤光敏感,浓度低于5%时防晒效果极弱,但据传,它可以模拟雌激素,可能导致子宫内膜异位2。吓cry了吧,虽然Oxybenzone依然是合法的防晒霜成分,但鉴于它的争议性,我们还是远离吧,扔掉!其他的化学防晒剂或多或少都有会产生自由基(free radical)和影响激素的案例,但是,我们还是要相信药监局啊,不然三观尽毁会活不下去的?。?!所以,该用还是可以用的,防UVA的防晒剂主要是:Avobenzone (parsol 1789) (全段)、Mexoryl SX (部分波段)、Octocrylene(部分波段)、Ensulizole (很小部分)等;防UVB的主要是:Homosalate (全段)、Octinoxate(全段)、Octisalate(全段)、Octocrylene (全段,这个跟Avobenzone一起会加强后者的稳定性)等。这就是前面提到的没有标注Board Spectrum,但成分存在的情况,选择的时候,不管有没有标注Board Spectrum,都要注意看成分里是不是都cover了UVA和UVB。

两步指南都over了,是不是很简单呢?哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈。我们来实战练习一下吧,我就拿我手头有的几瓶来对比一下。

【拜托??!以下不是推荐,好吗????!是楼主分析的样本啊?。?!】
【楼主是呕心沥血在科普?。?!不是丧心病狂在推荐??!】

NO.1. Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Lotion SPF 50

1

表姐推荐的防晒黑利器,看成分:Ensulizole(2%), Octinoxate (7.5%) , Zinc Oxide (16.3%),物理化学结合,UVA、UVB covered。氧化锌16.3%,哈哈哈哈哈哈,你还怎么黑??!

NO.2. Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 70

2

看成分Avobenzone (3%), Homosalate (15%), Octisalate (5%), Octocrylene (2.8%), Oxybenzone (6%),要做什么???没错,oxybenzone,扔掉?。。?!我为什么还没扔,擦擦脚,擦擦脚。。。。

NO.3. Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 70

3

看成分Titanium Dioxide (4.9%), Zinc Oxide (4.7%),纯物理,棒极了!氧化锌含量偏低,有加了一丁点防晒剂的香香的嫌疑。。效果有待观察。。

NO.4. Coppertone Sensitive Skin Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50

4

这是我今天搜索的一瓶,本来是想搓搓水宝宝锐气的,谁让它那么火。。。突然,这一瓶出现了,看成分Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (5%), Zinc Oxide (14.5%),跟资生堂蓝瓶大!差!不!差!价格却可爱多了??!

NO.5. Shiseido Anessa Mild Face Sunscreen SPF46 PA+++ (35ml),

5

Active Ingredients: Zinc Oxide (13.4%), Polysilicone-15 (7.5%)。物理化学结合,氧化锌在,13.4%,UVA、UVB覆盖。防晒效果不会差。但是,看后一个成分,“Parsol SLX (也就是Polysilicone-15)是一种化学防晒剂,无色或浅黄色液体,在澳大利亚、日本批准使用,但没有获得美国FDA批准”(见我的参考source1)。

NO.6. Aveeno Baby Natural Protection Face Stick, SPF 50

6

有效成分:titanium dioxide (8%), zinc oxide (6.8%), UVB cover得相当好,UVA也不错,但有点显弱,要知道zinc oxide是可以到20%的。

NO.7. Coppertone Pure & Simple Lotion SPF 50 Sunscreen

7

哈,刚发现其实水宝宝只是Coppertone的一个系列,你们让楼主不断成长啊。Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (5%), Zinc Oxide (14.5%), UVA、UVB覆盖, 这不就华丽丽地是上面说找不到的那一瓶嘛~~~~

NO.8. DHC White Sunscreen

8

Active Ingredients: titanium dioxide 5% zinc oxide 10%, UVA、UVB覆盖, 纯物理, 氧化锌10%, wonderful! 但SPF25也太低了点,适合非夏季用。

NO.9. Avene Cream Very High Protection SPF 50

9

Titanium Dioxide (10.78%) , Zinc Oxide (2.40%),纯物理, UVB cover得很好, 但看zinc oxide,UVA5%都不到,我赌你会黑。

NO.10. Devita Solar Protective Moisturizer SPF 30+ | 2,5 oz /75mL

10

呼。。我飞一样地干完活儿就赶过来了。。
我看到这款评价不泛白,纯物理,准确地说纯Zinc Oxide,看有效成分ACTIVE INGREDIENT: Zinc Oxide 19%,见过最高的Zinc Oxide了, 我回头买来试用看看。把自己种草了。。。。这样好吗。。?!疽寻尾?,今年Zinc Oxide有变,群众反映不大好。谢谢@橙子姐姐】

NO.11. SHISEIDO Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen SPF50+/pa+++

11

我没有查到具体百分比,有的菇凉可以提供给我。这款物理化学结合,有效成分Octinoxate, Octocrylene, Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide??吹贸隼词窍氚裊VA、UVB一网打尽。四个有效成分都全段UVB,UVA就交给Zinc Oxide吧。没看到百分比,有点遗憾。

NO.12. La Roche-Posay Anthelios Face Fluide Extreme SPF 50+

12

这款,我先咆一句,不肉疼吗不肉疼吗???!
这款是物化结合,偏化学的。有效成分:Mexoryl SX, Mexoryl XL, Titanium Dioxide, Octocrylene, Tinosorb S, Avobenzone, and Uvinul T 150,我也没有百分比。用了很多新型防晒剂,Mexoryl SX, Mexoryl XL啊,Uvinul T 150啊,Tinosorb S还是个广谱的。UVA、UVB都覆盖了,可是,我没有百分比啊啊??!

NO.13. Ultrasun high 30SPF super sensitive family formula 100ml

13

这一款用到了纳米微粒,官网都不标百分比,叹气。。有效成份:Octinoxate, Avobenzone,Titanium Dioxide (NANO),Tinosorb M (NANO), UVA、UVB都覆盖了, 效果不知道,因为!我没有百分比!

(全文完)

再次感谢狐狸咧玫瑰咧的分享。原文链接: http://www.douban.com/group/topic/40881948/

您需要才能回复
  1. 8d61b4d5c17a9bb071284555a8a05f8f
    愤怒的小悟饭Lv.3
    2015-06-15 00:18:27
    男生防晒有没有什么可以推荐的?特别是像我这种冬天的太阳都可以逛一次街就晒黑的人。

    回应

  2. 761559abb9904f6cc943b4ffe6bade7e
    鲁蛋蛋Lv.6
    2015-06-15 16:47:35
    男生防晒有没有什么可以推荐的?特别是像我这种冬天的太阳都可以逛一次街就晒黑的人。      愤怒的小悟饭
    我们应该是同类吧 哎

    回应

  3. 64e3d55aae57751836deeac7012090ed
    九哲Lv.13
    2015-06-17 15:18:23
    男生防晒有没有什么可以推荐的?特别是像我这种冬天的太阳都可以逛一次街就晒黑的人。      愤怒的小悟饭
    防晒不分男女的。都可以用。

    回应

  4. 17d86042374159d5de81ba7fcb6bed11
    ouxia_luoLv.1
    2015-06-29 16:47:05
    谢谢,瞬间明白了

    回应

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